Thursday 3 November 2016

White Crater (Kawah Putih)


Still trying to decide where to go when you want to travel a short distance? Well last weekend we decided to go to Kawah Putih (White Crater). For locals, this place is well known. It is located on Southern Bandung. You can reach Kawah Putih in about 2-2,5 hours from Bandung. Kawah Putih has been considered as being a dormant volcano since the 1600s. The view is surreal-beautiful, with cyan color of water which forms a lake in the middle of the mountain. This unique color is yielded from high level of PH-acidity. No wonder many visual art projects use this as their background, ideas, and inspirations.


To Kawah Putih



Today, we're going to explore the road and the venue with my best friend since teenage, Endras. Riding a motorcycle, we left Endras' place about 4.45 am in the morning. Hopefully we could see a sunrise on the road. But nah.. nada... In fact, it was "Sunday morning rain is falling..."

Due to that condition, we had easy motor-riding. Plus, we had several stops to make. So it was a pretty relaxing tour.

About 30 minutes before we reach Kawah Putih, the climate starts to change. Sunshine is combing the valley next to the curvy street we're on, and I pulled over to watch the beautiful mountain way far North. The mountain is so blue, leans on the light blue sky, behind trees and valleys.



Done with that, we continued our journey, and arrived 15 minutes before the hours of operation.. Yup, we arrived at 6.45 am. For us equatorial creatures, the temperature is freeeeezing cold. We barely could move our fingers. Our body was stiff. To warm us up while waiting for it to be open, I think it's a good idea to have a cup of bandrek (hot traditional Sundanese beverage made from ginger, brown sugar, and milk), bread, ok maybe with rice, instant noodle and omelettes. And crisps... And I haven't mention all FnB there. So don't worry about where you could get some food. Lots of FnB traditional booths there, with reasonable prices.




If you're riding a motorcycle like us, once you enter Kawah Putih zone, people there will direct you where to park your motorcycle. They'll charge you some fee. Before you pay, make sure you ASK them, what the fee is for. Is it for your helmet, or park, or mask? My suggestion is, bring your own mask if you have one. Doesn't have to be like radioactive mask, but the light one. You can also use a bandana or scarf as your mask. And please do wear the mask. Strong winds there bring sulfur vapor toward you.  

After a huge breakfast, we saw the ticket counter is open, so we bought our tickets. IDR 35,000 including shuttle car. We have to ride it because people are not allowed to ride a motorcycle directly to Kawah Putih. Lots of accidents happened. The road is pretty narrow, curvy, bumpy, and slippery since it's rainy season. So they provide a shuttle car for us.

Shuttle car
If you go by car, you don't have to rent shuttle car. Just ride your car until Kawah Putih and park it there. It's easier. The annoying thing is, Bandung can be quite a hell, especially in weekend, in an area you can't get away from... it's called: Soreang. If you're cool with traffic jam, car suits you :D 



Finally we arrived at Kawah Putih, welcomed by a unique smell of septic tank. Don't get confused. That's what sulfur smells like. The sunshine, blue sky, they're so perfect! Then we go inside, through a stair, then we find a little garden, saung kecapi (kecapi/traditional Sundanese music instr. booth) and another stair, and some people selling souvenirs and sulfur.
Little garden
Saung Kecapi (Kecapi Booth)
Stair to Kawah Putih 




If you're bringing the elderly people with you, they can enjoy the view from the shelter spot designed especially for them instead of going down to the crater. The shelter is comfortable and has a nice view.
 

Spot for elders

View from shelter for elders

Since the center area is pretty full with visitors, so we walk to the left side. It's pretty unique area indeed. The sand texture is like beach sand, lush trees at the edges, but trunk and branches near the crater. Beyond those trees, you could see high cliff, tree-lined like soldiers guarding the mountain.




Once we walked a few kilos to left side, we finally found a more unique and surreal place. There is a "historical site look-a-like". I call it that way because the ruins are from bricks, form circle inside circle, and some stones form a path next to it. Pretty quiet and no visitors here, nice place to catch my breath, straighten our legs, eat a snack we brought, and let our Star Wars - Lord of the Ring - Batman - Xena imagination take over :D
Line of trees, looks like legion to me





Circle inside circle


Cloud is peeking you




It's still about 9 am in the morning and sunshine is soooo bright. Maybe too bright. We'd better get back to the center zone and leave before rain hits us. These end of the year months (which is our wet/rainy season), the climate is unpredictable. Just never trust the initial climate first time in the morning when you just wake up. It can be deceeeiiiving. And just like what I wrote, when we reached the center zone, sky suddenly cloudy. So we're hurrying to find the shuttle car and get back to our motorcycles, and rain is welcoming us there. Whale whale whale... a cup of coffee, grilled sausage, and toasted bread would be great.

While we're enjoying our meals, an old man in pangsi suit (traditional outfit of Sundanese male) approached us. He starts to play violin beautifully. Not like any other street musician, this man then pulls a chair, sits down, and opens a warm welcoming conversation with us. Then he says, "I made it (violin) myself. It took several weeks to finish it. I use kecapi strings, and kite string for the bow. I know, it's not a real one, but at least I can play it and share it with people here". He continues, "I'm old and nothing to do everyday, and just looking for something I can do daily. If people give me money from what I play, I'd be thankful. But if not, it's okay. I'm just killing my time."



Not only unique in his way of making violin, but also the sound and scales. He plays some Sunda chants. For people who grew up with modern major diatonic scale, it is hard to digest the music interval he plays. But that's what makes all world music in all cultures beautiful. You don't have to think about it, just enjoy it!

On our way home
We're full already, enjoyed Sundanese music, and raining still, but not as heavy as before. So we make another stop to Bandrek Abah. Endras bought it for his friend... aww sweet :D

Our way home is much more slowerrrr. We had our clothes wet-dry several times. And Bandung + rain = flood + traffic jam. It was pretty stressful and annoying, but at least we arrived home safely and have a Kawah Putih beautiful memory inside us.

Things to do before you go:
  1. Prepare your own mask to reduce the risk of your respiration system exposed from sulfur vapor. Bandana or scarf would be sufficient.
  2. If you're not used into cold places like me (supposed you're from 4 seasons country), and go there with motorcycle, please do bring thick sweater or jacket.
  3. Best time to visit Kawah Putih is:
    a. Weekdays: not much visitors
    b. Dry/summer season (April-September): sky would look clearer, and little island in the middle of the lake would appear due to water level recedes
    c. Seven am in the morning, yes, when the ticket booth just open.
  4. Costs:
    a. Motorcycle park: IDR 5,000
    b. Shuttle car and ticket: IDR 35,000
    c. Mask (if you don't bring any): IDR 5,000




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Editor: Mark DeFazio


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