Solo Part 3: Second Oldest Museum & Keraton Surakarta

Seems I forgot to share other spots while I was in Solo. Sorry guys. Here they are:

1. Museum Radya Pustaka
Remember I wrote about Java Opera or Wayang Orang in my previous blog? If you have not read it, here is the link.
The opera is always performed in Taman Sriwedari. Not far from there, you will find the second oldest museum in Indonesia: Museum Radya Pustaka (The first oldest museum is National Museum of Indonesia in Jakarta). It was established by Kanjeng Raden Adipati Sosrodiningrat IV (royal advisor of Pakubuwana IX & X), in October 1890. The museum is pretty near, just about next to Taman Sriwedari. You can get there just by few steps. 

Front yard of the museum, right after the rain stopped.

We went here in January, so it was still rainy season. Pardon the cloudiness and those watery cobble stones. I directly went here soon as the rain stopped. So anyhow, the building was literally a house, owned by a Dutchman: Johannes Busselaar (so no wonder the building plan very much let's say "homey"), and used to keep important & confidential archive of Surakarta (Solo) palace. As time went by, there are various things added and kept in there. Not only literature, but also another matters which are related with the palace, such as souvenir collection, traditional & modern (at that time) weapons (you know guns in Jackie Chan & Owen Wilson movie Shanghai Noon? Pretty much like that), gifts from another empires, various mode of suit which were combined with batik (suit which usually worn by Solo King at that time), and many more. 

In front of the museum we can see statue of Rangga Warsita, a poet lived in 19th century.

Radya Pustaka classifies it's collection according to the matters/elements. So we'll find collection made from metal in one room, ceramics in the next room, and bronze in another room.

First part of the building, the terrace, we can spot several cannons from Dutch. Then step in the building, first room, we can see all kinds of wayang (traditional puppets) from domestic and abroad. In the next room, we'd find all metal stuffs: statues, weapons, miniatures. Then just few steps from there, there's an antique musical instrument: organ, a gift from Napoleon Bonaparte. 

  

Wayang room

The next room, we could see all materials made from ceramics (or some of you probably call it as "China"). And I love what I found in the next room: library!! Too bad some of them are written in Dutch. Well I could read it, even not knowing the meaning :p But not all of them written in Dutch. There are also in Indonesian language, and Javanese :D 

 

In the next room, we'll find statues and traditional music instruments (gamelan) made from bronze. And the next room, I was stunned by a set of massive gamelan which was owned by Kanjeng Raden Adipati Sosrodiningrat IV. How should I describe it? Magnifique! Got goosebumps only by watching it.

Kanjeng Raden Adipati Sosrodiningrat IV

Radya Pustaka seems like to surprised their visitors with their glorious collection. I thought the massive gamelan was the peak of all collection. Meh... I was wrong. Indonesia is an archipelago. Empires which reigned ALWAYS had maritime transportation: a huge ship. No, I didn't find the great ship, but if you just stood there, there is a huge statue of Rajamala's head, the legend in Solo history. I can't imagine how big the ship was. They said it was placed on the prow (front of the ship), and stern (back of the ship). With it's golden teeth, long mustache, big nose, eyes almost popped out, and all red. Geez it's so big!! Another goosebumps I got.

Rajamala's head

Finally, in the last room (the largest one I think), we find another statues, batik which usually wore by people in palace when Pakubuwana IV - V still reigned. Including the suits I mentioned earlier, combination of modern suit and batik.


2. Keraton Solo/Surakarta (Surakarta Palace)

Keraton Surakarta Hadiningrat is the official palace of Kasunanan of Surakarta. This palace was founded by Susuhunan Pakubuwana II in 1744 as a substitute of the Palace ravaged by Chinatown Rebellion in 1743. 

Palace garden

Palace garden

Palace garden

Palace garden

Although the Kasunanan of Surakarta has officially been part of Indonesia since 1945, this palace is still the residence of Sri Sunan and his court house which runs the royal tradition today. 

The garden is massively big, surrounded by the museum with terraces. So calm, peace, and quiet. Several big trees are coping the garden sand, completed with sound of chirping bird. Even it was a hot day, but the mind remind calm.

Main palace terrace

Palace terrace, across from the main palace

Surakarta Palace

Garden of Surakarta Palace

There's a museum inside the palace cluster, which keeps various collections of kasunanan, such as gifts from European kings, replicas of palace heirlooms, and gamelan. This palace is an example of the best traditional Javanese palace architecture.

All kings who had reigned in Keraton Solo

These "boxes" were used as kings transportation by lifted and carried by palace subordinates & servants. 

King's wagon

Its wheel is even taller than me

Before we enter the palace garden, we have to take our shoes off, unless if you were wearing flat sandals with straps like me, you'd be allowed to wear them inside the palace cluster. People in palace avoid the palace garden sand got carried outside. So they minimize it by ask visitors to take their shoes off. 

Gamelan inside the Palace

History at a glance (translated from Wikipedia)

Susuhunan Amangkurat II (Susuhunan of Mataram from 1677 - 1703) moved the Mataram Sultanate to Kartasura, due to Trunajaya rebellion in 1677. At that time, Susuhunan Pakubuwana II was reigning, Mataram was subjected to an uprising by the Chinese (allied with Javanese anti-VOC) in 1742. With support from Adipati Cakraningrat IV (reigned in West Madura and ally of VOC), Kartasura was finally recaptured even the situation had been severely damaged. Susuhunan Pakubuwana II fled to Ponorogo, then built a new palace in the village of Solo as the new capital of Mataram.

Susuhunan Pakubuwana II

Kartasura Palace building had been destroyed and considered "polluted". Susuhunan Pakubuwana II then ordered Tumenggung Hanggawangsa, Tumenggung Mangkuyudha, and the commander of Dutch troops, J.A.B. Van Hohendorff, to find the location for new capital/palace. They finally found it about 20 km to the southeast of Kartasura, in the village of Solo to be exact. 

After the royal palace was completely built, the name of Solo Village was later changed to Surakarta Hadiningrat. This palace was also a silent witness of  Mataram Sultanate displacement by Susuhunan Pakubuwana II to the VOC in 1749. After the Treaty of Giyanti in 1755, the palace was later made official palace for Kasunanan Surakarta.

Treaty of Giyanti which caused schism between Sultanates in Central Java

Treaty of Giyanti, on the other hand, was signed and ratified on February 13, 1755 in Giyanti (southeast of Karanganyar, Central Java) between Prince Mangkubumi, VOC, and Sunan Pakubuwono III along with his allies. Based on the terms of the agreement, the eastern half of the Sultanate of Mataram in central Java was given to Pakubuwono III with Surakarta (Solo) as its capital, while the western half was given to Prince Mangkubumi with its capital in Yogyakarta (sounds familiar?). This treaty marked the division of former territory of Mataram Sultanate between Surakarta Sultanate and Yogyakarta Sultanate. After signing the treaty, Prince Mangkubumi changed his title as prince and became known as Sultan Hamengkubuwono I. 

Pangeran (Prince) Mangkubumi/Sultan Hamengkubuwono I

Sunan Pakubuwono III

The Epitome of Kasuhunan Surakarta

"Sri Radya Laksana" is the epitome, or emblem, or symbol of Kasuhunan Surakarta which was created by Pakubuwono X. The name Radya Laksana is derived from Sanskrit, Radya means kingdom, Laksana means character, identity or symbol. The components are:

1. Makutha (Crown): The symbol of the King who upholds the value of Javanese culture (Keraton) that protect, be and protect.

2. Red & Yellow color, kasepuhan color (ancestors) which can be interpreted "the nature of patience and wise attitude"

3. Basic Color Blue, means rejecting bad nature. Also the manifestation of the vast sky as a symbol of widespread and forgiving.

4. Surya (Sun), symbol of world life source which means giving unconditionally

5. Sasangka (Moon), the moonlight that illuminates the night and does not dazzle the form, as the light in the darkness (uncertainty)

6. Sudama (Star), means guide in darkness or one divine symbol

7. Universe (Earth), as a place of beginning and end of life

8. Nails, symbolize firmness, consistency

9. Cotton & Rice, symbol of clothing and food, where clothing reflects the meaning of decency. The position of cotton on the right holds decency more than to seek sustenance.

10. Red Ribbon - White, is the symbol of the Father - Mother, where every human being must always keep the good name of the family. In addition, it can also mean unity of men (white) and women (red)

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